M & M - Is that you?

Here is our Pyrenees image gallery . The gallery will open in a new window, there you will see all the thumbnails, click on any of them to see a bigger version, or you can see a slideshow. Sorry about the advertisements, just ignore them (hey, free webspace is free webspace).

Click here to map of the walk

Saturday 11 September

Alarm for 4.45am, and up & leapt into clothes and off to the airport by 5.10 -- dropped off the car and checked in for our 6.25am flight --- at a VERY busy airport… could've been 6pm on a Friday! Full flight, but we still managed to smuggle on our bootbag to the lockers. So much for the quick flight to Gatwick… after we had a very eagerly awaited breakfast we circled for a good half hour, and were on the plane for 2 hours!! Just as well we had plenty of time for our connection, so we meandered along to the (again) very busy transit lounge and awaited our 11.45 flight… with several wanders off to the shops for an alarm clock (yep, I'd forgotten to pack ours), and films. Finally got onto our flight - a wee plane operated by Air Liberté for BA, & off out of the country. Lunch of smoked salmon salad, vino (just had to!) etc, and arrived into Toulouse about 2.30 pm local time. Thankfully (unlike the last time we flew to Toulouse) our bags were on the carousel and we gathered the 11 fellow Inntravellers with Carl -- the moustachioed driver. By 3.30 we were all jammed onto his minibus -- windows open (air con) and on our way. Not quite sure which way he drove, by it was to be a 3 1/2 hour trip to Vernet les Bain ( for 6 walkers) then onto Latour Carol (another hour) for the 7 horseriders. Thankfully Carl gave us a stop enroute -at Gorges St George (nr Quillan) for a leg stretch and to taste the spring water.. a local spot to fill up crates of water bottles! He warned us that the next hour was to be VERY windy -- and he wasnae kidding… Incredibly windy roads around the mountains before Prades, then up through Villefranche-de-Confuent (where we walk to on Monday), and onto Vernet-les-Bain for 7pmish arrival. Thankfully it wasn't as hot up here in the mountains as it was earlier. Toulouse had been stinking hot, but the mountain air was very refreshing and still quite warm. Carl offloaded us then drove onto Latour Carol with the horse-riders (and Mal's water bottle) -- his good "Sigg" bottle - in perfect nick at only 12 years old… all the dents in the just the right places to make you look like a serious walker.

We were in room 20, ground floor with a wee balcony…. at Le Mas Fleuri hotel… quite dated, but comfortable. The hotel does'nae have a restaurant, so we were given directions up to the town for the restaurant they use… a 10 minute walk up through the town square, and we were under the alfresco shade in their courtyard dining area. We were even too tired and knackered to partake of Pastis!! so straight into dinner. The maroon waistcoats (waiters) -- all looking about 15 years old, were 'managed' by a maroon blazered 16 year old!!, and raced around with wee serving tables and huge silver domes covering your meals -- all VERY efficient!! We both had their terrine & salad, then Mal had the tuna, and I had pork marengo… both with boiled tatties. And washed down with a Cotes du Rousillon ( Syrah) for 80ff. Then a crème brulee and sorbet to finish. 9.30pm saw us finish and wander home… and fall into bed totally exhausted at 10pm.

Sunday 12 September Vernet-les-Bains

Yeah, the alarm works!! And it was beeping for 8am -- most unusual for us on a Sunday. Breakfast picnic was given to us on trays at our courtyard tables, and we munched through pain et croissants and chatted to our fellow Inntravellers -- both parties are off today to walk to Villefranche to catch the train to Saillagouse - but are peeved that the train goes at 10am, and then again at 4.20pm, with nowt in between. With it being a 2 1/2 hour walk to Villefranche, the 10am is not an option…so that means a leisurely stroll there, then a wander around the village before catching the 1620 train… which then doesnae get into Saillagouse till just before 7pm… fine by us. These other 2 couples aren't doing the 10 day walk, just the 5 day 'explorer' so we shan't see them en-route again.

Decided to do the walk to St Martin du Canigou (12^th century abbey at 1100m altitude) and Casteil -- but NOT via the mountainous route .. just the 'better' way up the winding road… firstly up to the village of Casteil, then up the track to the Abbey of St Martin. T'was well worth the effort and the views were stunning… We munched on our pain on the way down and jealously saw the Sunday-lunchers at several alfresco restaurants… we could've quite easily sat ourselves down for a gastronomic feast, but restrained ourselves, and headed back into Vernet… dropping in at a café for a crepe -- jamon, fromage, oeuf, and cidre/cola (100ff) for our 2pm lunch… then back to the hotel for a sit, siesta and shower.

Back up the road for dinner and Morag had a salad from aubergines 'n peppers, and Mal had the terrine again, and then Dorade (turned out to be sea bream), and Morag had Pintade (guinea fowl)… all washed down with another Cote du Rousillon (85ff) which we watched the trainee maroon waistcoat (eventually) open under instruction from the maroon blazer!!! No chocolate dessert, so Mal put up with sorbet, and Morag had fresh raspberries.

Monday 13 September Vernet le Bain (altitude 650m) à Saillagouse

Today's walk - 10 kilometres

Obviously we decided on the 16.20 train, but still wanted to start early, so the alarm was set for 7.30am…had breakfast on the balcony, packed up our picnic, and we were off on the walk by 9.30… sunny morning, so we're expecting it to get hotter.

It took 30 mins. walking to get past the suburbs and once we past the equestrian centre, we were out of town. Steadily climbed on good paths and through sparse pine woods to about 800m. Luckily found a stick for Morag on the long hot ascent over the hills -- she'll be happy now!! Once we'd gone over the top it was a very very steep windy path through forest down to the river. Looking back at it later, twas hard to believe that there was a path down it! We entered Villefranche by the Spanish Gate, and wandered around -- quite a nice old town, very small -- basically just 2 main streets (full of tourist shops), and surrounded by huge walls. Main charm was the black metal sighs outside each shop with very intricate designs indicating what the shop was…..eg. waiter delivering food to a table or a sewing machine or vine leaves and bottle.

The train station (la Gare) is at the other end of town, so we wandered out the gates and around to it, and the train -- le train jaune (the yellow train) was waiting. It has about 8 carriages and a couple of open carriages, but we decided against these ones as it would be too windy once we got up further into the mountains. The little yellow train winds its way up and around the hills on a single electric track. Occasionally stopping for 10 minutes at la gare while another passes the other way.. must be about 5 of them doing the journey. Great views along the valleys and gorges to the mountains. Couple of good viaduct and suspension bridge tracks as well -- beats walking! Finally got to Saillagouse, and then a 10 minute walk into the village and to Hotel des Planes about 7pm. Quick bath each then round for dinner at 8pm in the main hotel. Morag started with a huge salad chevre chaud (hot goats cheese salad), while Mal had the regional 'charcuterie' -- a huge plate of local sausage, black puddings etc. Mo had some delicious duck and Mal supped on 3 grilled lamb chops… and with lots of vegetables. For dessert we both chose fromages from a well stocked platter. Think we were the only ones to have cheese all night -- most of the diners were having the local crème brulee specialty. Another bottle of local red "Chateau de Jau 98" washed it all down.

Tuesday 14 September Saillagouse à Eyne 2600

Today's walk - 10 kilometres

It started to bucket rain sometime during the night - not sure when, but it was still raining heavily at 7.30 when the alarm went off…. So it wasn’t a quick get up and go! The lady serving the excellent buffet brekky thought we were mad (ie. loco) to walk in the rain. She also cheered us up by saying that she once walked to Nuria and it took her 7 hours… so if she can do it so can we.

By the time we set off walking (about 10am) the rain had nearly stopped…. in fact, an hour later Mal stripped off his waterproof trousers enroute. In the overcast light the colours of the fields and hills were much deeper. Great views along the valley to the slightly snowy high peaks. Our first stop was at the thermal baths at Llo. For 25ff each we wallowed in tepid spa pool outside to start with, then inside to the 37' hot bath. Lovely and rejuvenating for us both.. and the other locals who were also participating. Walked up and out of Llo and had most of our huge picnic lunch at the Llo bus stop before heading off up the steep forest hill…. And trying to avoid the copious amounts of running water from the night rainfall. Up and down a few hills then through a heavy pine forest before the walking notes suddenly seemed to bear little relation to where we were. Consulted the map and decided to take a trail that we knew would get us to the GR path and eventually to Eyne 2600. Did the nature thingy and fed one of our green apples to a pony we met on the path, before finally arriving at Eyne 2600. In winter it is a ski village, and the ski lifts were all just hanging around for the season to start. Because it’s a ski hotel, the rooms are minute!! no luxuries in the bedrooms here, just your basic stuff. Met up with the horseriders we'd travelled with from the airport (one of whom had passed the elusive water bottle to one of the taxi couriers that morning… one day it'll join us again). As I write this its 6pm an starting to rain again, and the fog was coming into the hills at about 4.30pm. It will be necessary to make an early start tomorrow -- its our hardest day, and we don’t want to make it more difficult with a late start. Us and the horseriders were the only hotel guests, but they couldn't put us all at the same table as requested???? So it was a table of 8 for them, and us 2 next to them. Dinner was a set menu of prawn salad & charcuterie to start, followed by pork steak, then a wee slice of cheese, and those crème caramels again (mal had both). We were 'allowed' to move over to the big table for dessert, and had a chat and laugh with them before hitting the sack about 10pm. They had been doing fairly long days of riding and had already been to a few places we'll be going to in the next week. The mist was well and truly rolling in for the night, and the rain had started… we'll just see how it is in the morning.

Wednesday 15 September Eyne 2600 à Nuria (Spain)

Today's walk - 14 kilometres

Well, an early start is not really possible, cos they only start breakfast at 8am… so we were there for the doors to open, and then made our lunches from the enormous buffet there for all. Once the owner checked our maps and wrote some notes for us for the route, we were on our way by 9am. The horseriders were still breakfasting, but are due to stay another night there. Thankfully his notes and drawings were very good, as the Intravel notes didnae seem to be too accurate with paths to take. We headed off through the woods (that we should've come down through yesterday, but didn’t') and up the Eyne Valley. One of the (non)horseriders caught up with us for a while then bounded off into the distance… he was doing a circuit and back to Eyne. Once through the valley we headed across the boulder slopes -- and this is where we went rather wrong. We started ascending far too soon -- but as there were no markings n the maps it was very difficult to tell where the ascent should've started. Soon we were scrambling up the rock face - and cursing!! Some places were really quite dangerous and it took us a fair time to get up there… then we went in search of the elusive cairns that were the markers for crossing over the peak at the border and down to Nuria. We headed along the 2600m ridge in both directions, and finally decided we had found them, but couldn't find the downwards path. By this time the mist was rolling in , and it was really quite scary! In retrospect we hadn't found the right cairns, and should've headed further along the ridge. But we could see our destination - Nuria -- over the edge, and a path down to it -- so that was the way we were going to head!! After our mad scramble to get up the Col, we were in no condition to wander further along the ridge. So, we were (I think) on Col Finestrelles - about a km SW of the Col de Nuria, when we started our descent… and only then - about 4pm, did we feel comfortable enough to sit down and have our lunch -- at a signpost/marker along the ridge on the way down (and with Nuria in sight). Then it was just a case of getting down via the very windy track -- took a couple of hours for this descent, but saw some fabby purple-stemmed thistles enroute.

The Nuria hotel (at 2000m) used to be a monastery and has been converted and extended over several decades. The first wee chapel is 1600's, and now the whole area is a thriving resort with a funicular railway the only way in and out. The camping ground is very organised and the huge building houses a hotel, shops, restaurants, auditorium, church, dispensary, library and several bars -- a complete village!! The only other building is the YHA just up the hill. We just about fell in the door after 6pm and got our room - another small bath, but rather luxurious room with plenty of space => not really bothering us, seeing as we had to bring whatever we needed for the night => no roads from France, so our baggage does not get transported here. Dinner was an 8pm start (hey, we're in Spain), so after a wee snooze and bath, we went down…. Untucked walking trousers (still with boots) and a clean shirt. Entrée was a salad buffet - lots of goodies including pickled octopus…mmmm. Then we both had crumbed veal (ternera) and a buffet dessert -- nae chocolate though, but lots of fruit and flans…. All washed down with a Torres Rose... 1500pts (£6), then we collapsed upstairs to our room and dozed…. Another big day tomorrow, and depending on the weather as to whether we can/should do it. If its not possible because of fog or rain, then you can take the funicular down to the base on the Spanish side then catch another train to get to the village we'd be at in a couple of nights…. So only if desperate!!

Thursday 16 September Nuria à Vallcebollére

Today's walk - 16 kilometres

Again, not possible to get a really early start, as breakfast doesn't start till 8am, but the sky was a brilliant blue -- so the weather shouldn’t be a problem. Buffet breakfast filled us up, and our packed picnic lunch was at reception -- couple of baguettes and salad, and 2 wee water bottles.. just ast well we got 4 yesterday. Again the walking notes were not easy to follow against the map -- in fact the Eyne man had marked different paths from the notes! We ended up taking the path we'd taken down the previous day … and just followed the signs for Puigmal. But even that tactic wasn’t foolproof, as we ended up in the dry rocky river bed and followed it up the valley -- then had to leap over a wee chasm in the river bed -- with the water gushing through 30 feet below! Then we had to scramble up the 30 foot side of the river bed … thankfully it had been done before as there were plenty of foot holes up the sheer wall… then we found the path again at the top!! But not the Inntravel path -- that was on the other side of the river bed. Eventually the two paths did meet up and we were back on track --but probably had lost 1 hour and lots of energy in the process. From here the track was well marked and well used -- and several (day) walkers from Nuria overtook us as we trekked onwards and upwards to Puigmal (2910m). Lots of rest stops/catching breath were had on the long hot trek upwards and we finally made the summit about 1pm -- took the summit photos, and decamped at one of the stone shelters that had been built on the summit, and had a baguette. Still a long way, so we headed off with the intention of stopping later to finish the picnic. Up and along the track, but could'nae see any blue markers. We thought we were heading the right way, but on the descent about half hour later we asked 2 locals who were following us -- and NO we weren't going the right way!!…. So back up to the summit, then found the correct path and headed off again -- following 2 mountain goats of lads (1 hour later from 1^st time at summit). Unfortunately we followed them too closely, and did'nae see where the blue markers veered off to the right and down a gentle slope to the next ridge. So, we got to the end of the 'bump' and had to shimmy down shale and rocks for about 100 feet… and met the blue markers -- not the route to be recommended.

So, again - onto our waymarked track along the ridges via la Tossa (2662m) and the border post #506 at Col de Queralbs (2531m). Thankfully it was quick walking along the ridges and slightly downhill. After the border post photos we headed off the ridge, down to the valley on the French side, and followed the wee cairns on the moorland, then along the valley floor. Lots of forest paths and still a long way down to go. Saw lots of deer grazing up on the hills as we wandered along. The forest paths were fairly steep and joined up occasionally with the twisting road. Then joyous celebrations when a sign said "Valcebollere 20 mins" (on the walking path)… at 5.50pm! Shortlived though, as we still did'nae get to the hotel till 7pm -- absolutely knackered & shattered. Thankfully we're here for 2 nights, so tomorrow can be a 'nothing' day. Decent sized bath meant a big soak before dinner. The dining room here at Les Ecureuils is like a 17^th century lodge's room… huge fireplace, animal heads around the walls, low beams, and stained glass windows. And the food was equally as impressive => hot chevre salad, pork with vegetables and forest mushies, cheese ('fromage blanc' - akin to junket, served with honey), crepes suzette -- and all washed down with a local vino for 105ff.

Friday 17 September Valcebollére

Slept like a dream and up and showered and down to breakfast about 9am. Twas a beautiful blue sky, so we went out for a wee wander around the hamlet… no shops, pubs etc, but a honey museum (closed). That’s as about as strenuous as it will get today. Sorted ourselves out on a table with maps, diaries etc and had lunch of crepes, cider and crepes (150ff) then progressed to the lounge next door -- as the skies opened and the rain poured down. And a miserable day it turned out to be!! Just after we hit the lounge a coach load of tourists arrived for their fill of crepes, then Mal dashed upstairs for a siesta. I was so exhausted too so I joined him from 5 till 6.30…. then it was bath time and dressed for dinner. Again, it was fabby -- some great french onion soup, veal & mushy stew, salad, then crème caramels (aye, mal had both)… then struggled up to bed…. With a request that our bags be ready for a 9am pickup.

Saturday 18^th September Valcebollere à Puigcerda (Spain)

Today's walk - 16 kilometres

Doon to breakfast at 8am, with bags packed and ready. Discovered 6 other Inntravel walkers -- they're doing the Explorer walk and started on Thursday -- and will be with us for the next few days (one of them complete with her pearls and pink lippy for the day's walk). We'd collected our picnic and were out the door by 9.30am. About half an hour into the walk we took what we thought was the correct path, but in fact was'nae -- wrong blue arrow, and ended up heading down the wrong valley. One of the other couples had come the same way and we chatted with them at the edge of the lake in the park where we had decided to have our picnic lunch -- the terrine sandwiches were a tad dry until we cut up the tomatoes and slipped them in. After the picnic we headed onto Puigcerda (using maps, not notes), passing lots of new estates on the way. Seems to be a big demand for housing here… but where do they all work?? Eventually crossed the border back into Spain then into the back streets of Puigcerda. Arrived at Hotel del Prado to find front garden packed with wedding guests. Luckily the reception with disco finished quite early. Dropped of our non-essentials and headed up the hill to the old town. Quite a pretty place (unlike the back streets which were quite ugly), with interesting shops and nicely renovated buildings. Had a new battery installed in Mo's lucky "Tag Heuer" watch -- a whole 550 pts (£2). Dinner at the del Prado was an interesting experience -- the waiters seem to automatically know whether to greet the diners in Spanish or French. Us 8 Inntravellers were arranged in a line of 4 tables at the back of the dining room -- just right for people-watching. Huge green salad (for 2) to start, then entrée of ham & cheese croquettes for Mo, and something local with an X in the middle for Mal (mashed cabbage, spinach & potatoes with some pork crackling - rather sloppy, but tasty). Meat dish was grilled Hake steaks for Mo, and grilled beefsteak for Mal (with veg). Cheesecake & coffee cake for dessert, and of course a bottle of local vino (chardy).

Sunday 19^th September Puigcerda à Llivia (Spanish enclave in France)

Today's walk - 19 kilometres

After a huge buffet brekky at the del Prado we set off for Llivia under threatening skies. First stage of the walk took us up hill through the posh residential part of Puigcerda, past some great huge mansions. After plodding between some fields, along country lanes etc we arrived at a small town just as it started to rain. Sat under the shelter of a tree on a stone wall and had some lunch. One of the other Inntravel couples did the same, but they set off again earlier than us, and missed the impending entertainment. Car after car with locals arrived for some event in the large building nearby…. Sunday lunch?? Church service?? Bingo?? There were even coaches looking for places to part as we set off in the drizzle … and then even more (late) locals on foot running to where we'd just left. Through the village, across the main road and the beginning of the uphill section we trudged. Now it started to rain more heavily as we plodded up the hill. At some point the notes told us to go left around a "utility building" which we did. Searched around for what we thought was the right path and met the other couple also hunting for the right path. After nearly an hour wandering around in the rain we all finally decided to head back to the utility building and found out we should've turned right!! You'd think they'd get their lefts and rights right, right!! At this point we made our big mistake and didn’t head back the road to the nearest town and catch a taxi to Llivia. I think we were so pleased at finding the right path that we carried on. And it rained and rained and rained…..

On a nice day it would have been a great walk though woodland paths and meadows. The only scenery we saw was the muddy path as we plodded on with rainhoods over our heads. Did see some nature -- a tiny yellow and black lizard only an inch long; a wee frog hopping away from our boots; two small snails with the most beautiful spirals around their shells; and two wee native hens that scooted along the path in front of us (like road runners) until some walkers came the other way and they were forced to head off into the bushes. Finally made it to Hotel Llivia, absolutely sodden - right through to the skin. Stood dripping at reception being told there were absolutely no drying facilities, they wouldn’t lend us any heaters… and did we have our Inntravel vouchers ready? We were lucky with our allocation of a rather spartan attic room… only our tele did'nae work. The other couple got the room next door with the hole in the bathroom ceiling with water pouring in. The hotel was full to bursting with a SAGA tour group and Danish tour, so they were stuck with that room. Headed down for dinner about 7.30 to find huge queues (of SAGA) at the buffet, so went to the bar and found the other couple were there waiting.. so had a few drinks and laughed off the miserable conditions. When we finally got to the buffet it was pretty unappetising -- main meat was a big leg of luke warm roast pork, so we know what we'll be getting on our pieces tomorrow.

We had finally been able to have our boots, jackets, daypacks and clothes put into the laundry, which was the warmest room in the hotel… thanks to a Spanish-speaking SAGA lady who translated my complaints to the hotel manager. Our bathroom looked like a chinese laundry with clothes, daypack contents and maps and notes all hanging up to dry. Depending on how things dry will decide whether we walk tomorrow.

Monday 20^th September Llivia à Font Romeu (France)

Today's walk - 8 kilometres

The previous night we'd been a bit concerned about the non-appearance of the other 4 Inntravellersl, but were told that they were not booked into the Hotel Llivia. Turns out the hotel was full by the time they booked their holiday, so it had been arranged for them to be taxied back to Puigcerda for a second night. In retrospect, given a choice we'd have done that as well. At least all of our stuff was dry, and the SAGA rep (Bozo) had convinced the hotel that they must turn the heating on, even though it wasn't 1^st October (the date that it normally goes on!!). Buffet breakfast, packed up, collected picnics and set off - determined not to get lost today. Headed up a narrow path at the back of town to be met by old farmer Jacques with very bandy legs in his wellies, followed by his cows…Luckily we were able to stand aside at a gateway as about 30 cows ambled past. The oldest, lamest ones were really dragging along last, followed by another farmer and the mangiest mud-covered dog you've ever seen. We have about 800 metres of gradual ascent today, so it was climb, climb, climb. Stopped for lunch at a spot provided for paragliders, just after we passed a disused solar power station. Signs up forbidding flights over the station, and in case of accidental flights over the station do not look at the mirrors -- risk of instant blindness!!

Surprisingly good picnic (including the nicest peaches Morag has ever eaten) before carrying on further uphill. Thought we'd beaten the getting lost curse when we figured out to turn left instead of right, as (wrongly) instructed. Finally reached the high point of our day's walk as an airforce jet buzzed overhead on a training flight. The section had given fantastic views across the wide valley to the mountains we'd been trekking in a few days before, with the 3 ravines pointing towards us…. and some snow on the highest peak where we had crossed the border. Headed down the other side of the hill managing to follow the notes. Then thought we'd got lost, and spent about 15 minutes wandering upstream trying to get ourselves un-lost. Eventually gave up and headed downstream planning to find the road to Font Romeu. Crossed the footbridge not mentioned in the notes and lo and behold, there was the cattlegrid we'd thought we should have found about 20 minutes ago.

Good views along this section, over the village of Egat, then the town of Font Romeu, which we now entered past an interesting looking golf course. The notes misled us into thinking our hotel was at the bottom of town (a long way down the hill) when its at the very centre… so narrowly escaped a very long trudge back uphill, by asking the locals where it was.

Font Romeu is a winter sports resort, and has the French winter olympics training 'college'. Hotel Carlit is quite nice and a comfy but small room. We've even been given a form to specify which 'menu' of picnic lunch we'd like for our next day's walking (for the day after next). For dinner, the menu terroir looks promising but unfortunately is not for us, ours is a no-option menu. Magret-de-canard salad, followed by a veal steak, followed by a selection of cheeses. All quite tasty though, and our usual accompaniment of pastis and vin rouge (chilled Catalan Merlot, 70ff).

Tuesday 21^st September Font Romeu

Rest day…. and that's exactly what we have been doing!!!!! Brilliant blue skies, but freezing biting wind, so the jackets, fleeces and sunblock were the go for the morning wander. The other 6 Inntravellers are heading off to La Lagonne for their last day's walk, so we shan't see them again. Had a wee wander along the rue near the hotel and bought a (45ff) plastic pocket for maps -- if only we'd had one a few days ago!! And had a look at boots and jackets for Morag -- as both of them are rather un-waterproof. Mal wandered back to the room with the Sunday Times (25ff) and I wandered down the hill to the old town for a look…. Then trudged back up the shady footpath at about 2pm -- steamin' hot!! Now, as we sit in our room digesting the contents of the paper, I'm having a rumbling digestive time with the packet of dried apricots I've just demolished. Just as well tomorrow is only a 4 hour walk -- the dark clouds are rolling in and the breeze is rather chilly. Yep, the apricots seemed to be all through (me) by the end of the evening!! Wandered down for dinner about 7.30 and were basically thrown a bowl of soup by the manic waiter… then (well cooked) salmon… followed by some apple tart (which I managed to force both mine and Mal's helping down)

Wednesday 22^nd September Font Romeu à Les Bouillouses

Today's walk - 12 kilometres

Thankfully only a 4 hours walk today.. cos when we came back from breakfast the clouds were rolling in through town, and you could hardly see the end of the street 30 metres away. By half 9 they had done their bit in town and rolled off, and we were ready to head off into the sun on our trek. As usual we could'nae follow the notes to start with - somewhat lacking in the directions, but we managed to find our way in the end - and up the hill to the Coll de Pam -- up in the hills where the ski lifts (from town) and ski tows (further up the hills) meet…. All quiet at the moment. Then down through the forest and around to the lakes/tarns…lots of fishermen around the lakes. We could've followed the track winding around the top of the lakes, but we chose to do the more direct route to the hotel. It’s a huge 4 floor building by the edge of the dam, but most of it is not used. There are only 4 wee bedrooms and a dormitory on the lower ground floor, and the huge bar/dining area is on the ground floor. We dumped off our day packs, and had our lunch by the hotel about 2pm, then went for a wander along the dam wall and around a wee circuit through the forest. Lots of very dozy horses just standing around in the carpark - nuzzling the cars and having a chew at the wipers, and not really wanting to move when cars drove through them. Had our first siesta in ages when we got back - then up and showered in time for 7.30 dinner. Only us and 3 others in for dinner - and what a dinner!! Hot chevre salad, followed by a mixed grill from the fireplace -- lamb chops, cutlets, sausage, grilled tomatoes & peppers, and baked tattie (from the coals in the fireplace)…. The best (only) mixed grill we've had in a very long time. We were offered cheese then dessert, but both opted to skip the cheese so we had room for chocolate icecream (mal) and tarte de pomme (mo)…. Managed to wash our dinner down with a Bordeaux merlot/cabernet '95 for 100ff. Then it was a waddle outside, downstairs and around the corner to our room. Its our last walking day tomorrow, and will be a biggy - about 7 hours walking around the lakes and off down the valleys to La Llagonne.

Thursday 23^rd September Les Bouillouses à La Llagonne

Today's walk - 15 kilometres

After last night's gourmand dinner, brekky was just bread, croissant and confit. Just as well probably. We hadn't slept that well with rather full tummies, lumpy bed and heated room. Beautiful morning though!!!!!! Woke up to the sound of a cow bell just outside the window. The light in the morning was fantastic - very clear with shadows and light patches on the surrounding mountains, with the sun peaking through between two mountains. The first part of our walk today took us up the western side of the main lake along the rocky path - twas quite slow going. Lots of other walkers/fishermen (& women) heading along with fishing gear and full packs. We walked around the top of the lake, alongside some pretty streams, then branched off the main path to head southeast toward our destination. We skirted a couple of smaller lakes -- very closely around their shores. At some points we had steep rocky walls on one side and lake just a boot-width to the other. Just after this we had our daily session of getting lost. In changing from blue waymarks to yellow ones we somehow lost them altogether. After 20 minutes of looking around we decided just to take a compass setting in a SW direction and hoped to pick up the path again -- which worked!!! Now it was a walk all the way down the eastern side of the lake, slowly drawing away from it. Some lovely views across the lake with mountains in the background and clear blue skies. After a while we started heading slowly downwards along a path through pine forests, then after an hour or so the path went through some farmyards where Morag had some fun with the electric fences ("this won't be live, will it?? OUCH!!) About 7 1/2 hours after we set off we finally walked into La Llagonne and down to our hotel. The end of the trek!! Legs suitably tired and sore. Just had time to sort ourselves out and have a bath before dinner. Started with legume potage (no lumpy bits), then a rather odd (but nice) salad of lettuce, croutons, small cubes of cheese, and pine nuts. Main course was a VERY rare bifstek (glad we asked for medium) accompanied by a spud each and a tasty little omelette. Still managed to squeeze in a few bits of cheese each and a slice of chocolate cake for Mal. All washed down with a pastis and a bottle of haut medoc from Bordeaux.

Friday 24^th September La Llagonne à Carcassonne

After a good night's sleep we had the usual breakfast then packed up for our 9am taxi trip to Villefranche. Quite an interesting trip -- zipping straight through the kind of territory that we'd struggled along in the past 10 days, almost back to the beginning of our trip. Sure enough there was a "little yellow train" waiting to leave as our chug-a-lug train left for Perpignan. Arrived there 5 minutes late and just as well we still had 10 minutes for our changeover to the big train heading to Toulouse. Arrived Carcassonne about 12.30, once again lucky our hotel (Terminus) was near the station as the luggage is rather heavy. Quite a decent room for 345ff per night, and we're booked in for 2 nights before flying back to Edinburgh. It’s a grand old hotel, with huge sweeping staircase and "parlour". The temperature here is rather hot, and you can really feel the difference from "up" in the hills. We headed straight out into the sun and towards the "cite", grabbing a bite to eat as we went. Quite an impressive looking citadel up on the hill (with very muddy river at the bottom), but mostly full of restaurants and shops selling tourist tat (reminds us of Mont St Michel). Had a good look around, and some really yummy icecreams before the heat (high 20's?) defeated us and we went back to the room for a siesta before dinner. Headed out about 7.30 to a restaurant in our guidebook (L'ecurie). Really nice place - converted stables. Decided the 165ff menu looked really good. Both started with some foie gras, then Mo had magret de canard, while Mal had a double loin of lamb, then 2 pieces of cheese each (with a dribble of honey??), then the chocolate gateaux each. All rather yummy, washed down with a youngish bottle of rouge (98ff). Stopped on the way home for a couple of night photos of the citadel.

Saturday 25^th September Carcassonne

Up with the sparrows at 8ish and we think we gate-crashed a group's breakfast in a wee room - but no-one told us to leave - so it may be a freebie petit dejeuner?? Then off to the open air Saturday morning market down in the town square. Quite a neat wee fruit, veg, flowers, fish market - a couple of mornings a week. Oh to have one in Edinburgh!! The hotel lad had told us where a big hypermarche was, so after buying a few cans of foie gras at the market (70ff) and another at the covered meat-hall, we trekked off to the edge of town to find the hypermarche….. and it was only 10.30am! Wandered around for an hour or so and bought sausages, chocolate, lollies (for work), pates -- 172ff, and then wandered back to a bus stop and jumped on a bus back to town. Then via the local tabac as it was closing, for a Telegraph and poulet rolls, and home for the obligatory long lunch and paper read.

We dashed off to the train station and bought tickets for tomorrow. Unfortunately there are no trains from half one until 4pm for the trip to Toulouse… so it will be the lunchtime one for us which will give us plenty of time to transfer to the airport at Toulouse, and plenty of sitting time at the airport for our 6.30 flight. Just as well we did the Cite yesterday -- cos its started raining. Mal stayed inside for the afternoon, and I've just dashed off to do the obligatory shopping -- and come home with a handbag and wallet, and a chocolate cake and citron cake for tea.

We had intended heading to another 'recommendation' in our guide book for dinner, but it was well and truly closed when we got there, so we went hunting for an alternative, and eventually found a Moroccan Cous Cousserie. Filled ourselves with a cous cous and a tagine, and one of the 'local' algerian vin rouge.

Sunday 26^th September Carcassonne à Edinburgh

Bit of a drag of a day… by the time we had breakfast (paid for it at the café next door), packed up and paid for the room… it was still hours to go before our train. So we had another quick wander around the town and found a Vietnamese restaurant for a lunch bite. Good for a change. This is the boring bit of any holiday, waiting for your transport.

Finally headed round to the Carcassonne railway station and caught our train back to Toulouse. Then bus from central Toulouse to the airport. More waiting for our flight to Gatwick. Flight delayed trying to land at Gatwick which is bad, cause our changeover is only about 30 mins. Finally land at Gatwick to find someone collecting all of us wanting to catch the Edinburgh flight, off we went jogging/sprinting to the departure desk, wondering what would happen to our luggage.

Bit of a hold-up as Morag had to fill in a landing form at the passport desk. In the end we got there with minutes to spare as the Edinburgh flight takeoff was delayed. So, our baggage made it too. Yeah!

Finally got to Edinburgh about 8pm to find a huge queue of people waiting for the mini-bus to our remote parking site. Big barny in the office once we'd got there as some git had lost his parking voucher and couldn’t remember the reg. Number of his hire car, but still expected them to know where to find his silver Ford Focus instantly.

Home at 10pm, unpacked, into bed. Got to go to work tomorrow, really could do with another holiday to recover from this one! The food varied from ordinary to fantastic, the walking was great, just wish we hadn’t got lost every day.

The End

Top of page

Aye, that's us: 1999 Pyrenees Walk