Aye, that's us: March 2002 a trip to Italy

This is our first "Euro" holiday.  It's going to be very handy to just have one set of currency to take to various countries - France, Spain, Italy etc.

In relation to the British Pound, 1 Euro (€1) is equal to about 63p, as far as Italy goes, €1 is worth about 2,000 Lira.  For those in Australia, I suppose €1 is worth about $1.70?  Each Euro is made up of 100 cents.

The only problem we had with the new notes and coins is that the coins are too much the same size.  Obviously the 1c coin is very different from the €2 coin, but the €2, €1 and 50c are very close to the same size.  50c, 20c and 10c are a very similar size, and so on.

Tue 19th March, Edinburgh - Rome

Rise and shine at 4am - argh!  Being us, we had set 3 alarms to make sure we didn't sleep in.  The first woke us so the other two nagged us to get up.  Out the door at 4:30 and then quickly back to pick up my rainproof jacket, we were at the airport in good time to drop-off the car and check-in for our 6:30am flight.

Unfortunately Air France were not quite so punctual, we took off about an hour late and arrived at Paris CDG about 45 mins late.  The airport was packed, so by the time we'd swapped terminals and gone in-and-out of security our next flight was due for boarding.

Meals and service were OK on the flights, but arriving in ROme we found that Mal's bag was quite wet, and so were half the things in it.  Will be having second-thoughts about travelling Air France again.  Caught the train from airport to central Rome as out hotel is near the station (Termini).  When converting to the Euro they have been careful not to round up, so there are lots of odd prices, such as these train tickets which were €8.78 each.

Once we'd checked-in and hung up Mal's clothes to dry, we just had to have a snooze, our eyes were dropping out of our heads, so set the alarm for 1 hour and went straight to sleep.

After our siesta we headed out for a walk, having decided on a restaurant near Plaza Spagna.  It took us a good hour to get there as we kept stopping to look at things, including the Trevi Fountain.  Arrived at Pizzeria Leoncino just as it opened, organised with the very grumpy waiter to have a Caprese (mozzarella and tomato slices), Crustini (cheesy toast with prosciutto) to start, then a Cappriciosa for Morag and a Calzone for Mal.  All washed down with a huge bottle of water and a half-litre of rough red.  t €25 in Rome it was a bargain (although I'd have to say the Calzone is not as good as that what my mate Frank makes - Mal).

It only took us 40 mins to walk home and we fell into bed exhausted at 9:30pm.

Our hotel in Rome was the Hotel Kennedy

Wed 20th March, Rome

Despite lots of traffic noise we both slept soundly and were woken by the alarm at 7:30am.  Shower was good and we were down for the "eat as much as you like" buffet brekky at 8:30.  Brekky was OK, very much lots of processed stuff like processed cheese slices and such.  Most importantly Morag got a proper cup of tea (apart from the jug of frothy hot milk that came with the tea).

First task out and about was to get train tix for tomorrow, there was a huge queue at the info windows, luckily we found a machine where we could use the flexible friend to by our tix (helps that we had looked up the train times on the net before leaving, so knew exactly what train we wanted).

Then we were off to "do" Rome, first to nearby Santa Maria Maggiore, a huge basilica near our hotel, one of Rome's 5 great basilicas and the best preserved Byzantine interior (so our guide book says).  Headed toward the Coliseum next when a car pulls up next to us to ask for directions.  We didn't capiche so then he asked in English and was quite insistent, and only wanted to know where the basilica we'd just visited was, so we pointed him just up the road.  Oh he was so grateful, he just had to present us with these fine Italian leather jackets that he dragged forward from the back seat.  Real leather, top quality, weren't we so lucky to get such exquisite gifts for such a simple favour, now if we could just see him right for some petrol money.....

Morag pushed the "leather" jackets back into the car window and he drove off looking for someone else to ask directions from.  We headed on the the Coliseum, complete with loads of tourists and a few "gladiators" hanging around outside, practising twirling their swords while waiting to get their picture taken.

We wondered around for a while looking for the road that leads up to the hill affording views over the Forum.  We stumbled across a school of some sort (looking through a break in the high stone walls), lots of students and teachers in togas, some learning juggling, some the javelin, some sitting around on the grass.  Very odd.

It seemed like we'd wandered the whole way round the forum before we found the way up to the Piazza del Campidoglio where you can see down over the Forum.  It was quite warm and we were both flagging and in need of a sit down, so we sat in the shade on the steps of one of the museums and watched the tourists wander round for a while.

Twas getting toward lunchtime so we decided to head across the Tiber River and toward the suburb of Trastevere and eventually found a small restaurant (in a bunch of narrow windey alleyways) Casetta di Trastevere, and indulged in some anchovies, tomato/mozzarella salad, carbonara, and spinach/ricotta pasta (washed down with water) for €29 on their shady terrace (a  roped off part of the alleyway).  The taverna opposite was doing a roaring trade with the locals, they'd roll up ont heir scooters and stand around waiting for a table, but it wouldn't have suited us as their tables were in the full sun.

The recommended gelati shop was just around the corner but by the time we made our way round and round the little alleyways it felt like quite a walk.  Mal had a "grand" with choc, choc/hazelnuts, stracciatelle, coffee (€2.50) while Morag had a medium with choc/hazelnut, lemon, zabaglione (€2).  Delicious.

Next stop was over the river and thru the streets to Piazza Navona - absolutely heaving with people, including a very huge and load fella who was shouting abuse at someone.  There were 5 or 6 polizia in attendance and a couple of suited Japanese involved?  Not sure, but the big fella was shouting and waving his arms.  One of the motor-bike polizia was trying to calm him down and being pushed around.  After 5 or 10 minutes, things seemed to calm down and everyone just wandered off.  Don't know what was going on.

Anyway, the Piazza seems to have been undergoing a bit of restoration recently, with the buildings looking as if they've had some spit and polish.  Painters were busy as we were there.  The central part, around the fountains, was absolutely packed with tourists, and where there are tourists there are  loads of people wanting to sell things (mostly rubbish), they in turn atteact pick-pockets, so we kept an eagle-eye out.

From there it was a short walk to the Pantheon in the middle of a small piazza, then home along via Nacionale.  Had a quick restoring kip then showered for dinner.  We were planning to go to a place called Pommidor, just the other side of Termini, but it was closed, so we started to wander back toward the hotel and came across Pizzeria Econimca, a small place full with locals, always a good sign! 

So in we went and the food was excellent.   We started with beans and cheese/salami for antipasta, accompanied by the most delicious bread, then a pizza each washed down with a half-litre of rosso and some water - €20.  Bargain.

Loads of the locals were getting a variety of antipasta, anchovies, peppers, eggplant, etc, all looked delicious.  If it wasn't our last night in Rome we'd definitely have been back.  Pizzeria Economica, via Tiburtina 44/46, 00185 Roma.

Here are some photos from Rome. Click on any photo to see the full-size version

A gladiator at the Coliseum

Morag and Augustus' arch

At Piazza Navona

The Pantheon

The Roman forum

The gladiators

More of the forum

The school...

The forum from above

Campidoglio hill

Thu 21 March, Roma - Orvieto

Another very noisy night's sleep, with buses, bikes etc etc roaring down the street.  Our plan is to catch the 11:14 train to Orvieto, so no rush to get up and have brekky.  Headed off about 10:30.  It's a Florence train and we should arrive at Orvieto at 12:32.

Saw lots of hilltop towns en-route and lots of green fields, on arriving at Orvieto you catch a funicular up the hill to the town. We managed to get one with 30 screaming Italian teenagers!  At 90c each it includes a mini-bus from the top funicular station to the Duomo, which we shared with about 15 of the still-screaming teenagers.

The duomo is a very impressive site with grey and white stripey stone on the sides and huge mosaics on the facade. We found our Hotel Italia at 1pm and they had our room ready, so we checked-in and changed into shorts for the afternoon.

The locals are still in their winter clothing (sometimes coats) so we did get a few odd looks from adults and children alike as we wandered about with bare legs.  Twas only a problem for us when we went to the Duomo - gad it was chilly in there and a pleasure to come back out into the sunshine.  There's going to be a concert at the Duomo on Sat night so they are busy building scaffolding inside for lighting, cameras etc, and there are loads of big trucks parked around the side, so photos of the Duomo come with loads of trucks and people.

Had quite a wander around town (here's a map) and sampled the local gelati (v nice) and admired the view over the surrounding plains.  Asked at the local tourist office about walking trails but were told there were none.  The lady behind the counter didn't seem to understand the concept of walking other than in the streets of the town.  So maybe no trekking into the countryside from here!

Wandered back to our hotel about 5pm and promptly fell asleep until about 6:30.  We had no guide-book recommendations for restaurants in Orvieto so we just went wandering and came across Antica Cantina.

Mal had an antipasta of local ham and salami followed by a (huge) grilled pork chop, Morag had crostini (toast) with various spreads (one was had truffles) then rabbit stew, accompanied by some boiled spinach and some potata rosti (chips), washed down with water and local rosso for €44.50.  The restaurant was very quiet, only one other couple in, but the food was good.  We did think it was a but pricey though.

Get back to the hotel to find the lobby packed with screaming teenagers (or pre-teens?).  Oh joy.

Here are some photos from that day. Click on any photo to see the full-size version

Orvieto, the Duomo

Orvieto, the Duomo

Duomo, detail from the facade

More detail from the facade

More of the Duomo

View from Orvieto

The clocktower

The chap who tolls the bell

Fri 22nd March, Orvieto

Not a bad night's sleep, managed to sleep through the church bells which chime the hour then the quarter, half, etc, every 15 minutes.  Nice hot showers then down to brekky with 20 or so screaming 12 year olds.

After brekky we wandered east to St Patricks well, a source of water in times of seige.  Before we got to the well we passed the remains of the Etruscan temple - foundations only.  Just nearby was the edge of the hill the town is built on - not so much a hill as a sheer outcrop of rock - straight up (or down).  Makes for very spectacular hills.

Over at the well you can walk down a spiral staircase to the bottom, then up another stair - they're concentric, very clever.  These days there's only a few feet of water and a lot of Italian Lire at the bottom.  Of course, we shared the experience with about 30 screaming teenagers (new ones).

After the well we wandered further round the park to the funicular station for more great views over the countryside.  By now it was getting toward lunchtime, so we wandered back toward the centre of town (stopping en-route a t a camera shop to stock-up on new batteries for Morag's camera, half the price they are in Britain).  Next stop was the local grocery store for 2 big red toms, ham, buffalo mozzarella and bread (€6.50) - we know just the spot for a picnic.

There's a wee park just near the Duomo, feasted on our bits while enjoying the views over the countryside.  then we wandered around the city walls at the west end of town, there's an escalator here that takes you down to a big carpark.  The map shows a single escalator but there's about 6 or 7 of them wending their way upward through the rock.

It was getting pretty warm by now so we decided it was time for ice-cream.  Heaps of yummy flavours to choose from and you get three flavours per cone.  There's an alleyway near the gelataria with some groovy wooden seats so we sat there and slurped the gelati, then wandered back to the hotel for an early siesta at 4:30.

Got ourselves showered and ready to go out again about 6:30, had spotted a likely looking place that afternoon, just along from where we ate last night.  So wandered to there via the crafty shops near the Duomo.  Got to the restaurant about half-7, waitress seemed a bit dippy, maybe just very talkative?  Ordered some vino rosso, checked the menu and ordered risotto each to start, then saltimbocca (veal and prosciutto) for Mal and scalopini for Morag.  The risottos were much too creamy for our liking (maybe that's genuine Italian style?) and the main courses were not brilliant.  Morags veal medallions were pretty chewey and mine was tasty but not hot enough.

Decided against asking the waitress to do anything about because she seemed so odd.  Decided against dessert but once the waitress got chatting again she decided to bring out some biscotti, then she noticed we had only red wine so brought out some white wine to dip it into.  We don't think she charged us for those (the bill is unreadable) but even so the price was way to high at €57.50.  We'll be more on our guard against places like this from now on.

Back to the hotel fairly early - no kids so we sat in the lounge and had a vino rosso and a coffee until a busload of older Italians arrived.  Must have been about 30 of them and they made as much noise as the wee ones, so we fled to our room.

Here are some photos from that day. Click on any photo to see the full-size version

Backstreet in Orvieto

The well in Orvieto

Mal at the well

Backstreet in Orvieto

Scene in Orvieto

Scene in Orvieto

The well in Orvieto

A group of fathers in robes (hidden in the shadows)

View of the edge of Orvieto

Scene in Orvieto

Rooftops in Orvieto

Ahhh, gelati

Sat 23rd March, Orvieto

What a horrible night's sleep, between the traffic in the street, the church bells and the noisy Italians leaving the hotel at 4am we hardly got any sleep.  To add insult, the Italians had all arranged wake-up calls and we got one too.

There's a small market in town this morning so after a (peaceful) brekky we wandered out to the market to check it out, the usual stuff, lots of fruit&veg, various meats, smelly cheeses, clothes, kitchen stuff, shoes, etc.  Also a couple of little old ladies each with heaps of asparagus and salad leaves. 

We were just commenting that it was a bit chilly and heading back to the hotel to get our coats when it started to rain.  From the safety of our hotel room we watched heavy rain for about half-an-hour, when it stopped we gathered our coats and headed out for a bit of a walk out of town.

Because the tourist office had told us there were no paths out of town we decided to go on the roads, our target was the local cemetery which we could see from the town, on the next hillside.  We figured it would give us a good view back over town.

The walk on the roads wasn't too bad, not much in the way of a sidewalk but just enough to keep you away from the trucks and cars.  In the cemetery we wandered past the beautifully kept graves and mausoleums until we found just the right spot for photography, just near a boat-shaped gravestone, that gave a great view back to Orvieto.  The sun even came out for us.

But it was uncomfortable windy so we headed back to town via another small road until we found the carpark and the escalator back up to town - very handy it is too.  Got back before any more rain came - the sun was out but the wind was icy-cold.

Since it was now 1:30 we decided on lunch and headed for Charlies Pizzeria, were we had a couple of excellent pizzas.  That was followed by a trip to the post office for stamps for pc's, only to be told we should buy them at the Tabachi.  Not that the PO doesn't sell stamps, but the one's they sell are very big and would cover half the postcard.  In Italy, go to the Tabachi for stamps.

Then back to the hotel to catch up a bit on last night's sleep, followed by a refreshing hot bath before heading out for dinner.  After last night's disaster we had asked the lass at the hotel desk for a restaurant tip, she had recommended a place called Zeppelin but we had checked it out during the day and the menu was pretty pricey.  But nearby was Ristorante del Cocco, which had been very busy at lunchtime.  So we'd decided on that one and it turned up trumps.

We were first to arrive and ordered pasta with wild boar sauce and bean soup for starters, then grilled lamb chops and grilled wild boar chops (with spinach, broccoletta and chips), before a steady stream of locals began coming in.  At about 8:30 some 20 or 30 people came in, all with bags, musos from the concert at the Duomo.  It would be a busy night at the restaurant!  Our meal with a nice bottle of local red was €42, if we'd found this place on the first night we'd have not bothered with anywhere else - Ristorante del Cocco, via Garibaldi 4, Orvieto.

Had a quick wander round to the Duomo to check what time the buses leave for the funicular - every 15 mins. Very busy round here after the concert, but a very cold breeze blowing through town.

Here are some photos from that day. Click on any photo to see the full-size version

Orvieto market

Orvieto from the cemetery

Another view from the cemetery

Orvieto from the cemetery

Orvieto from the cemetery

Orvieto from the cemetery

Another view of Orvieto

Sun 24th March, Orvieto - Spoleto

Had a better night's sleep than last night.  Brekky at the usual time, had the brekky room to ourselves.  Plenty of time as our train is not until 12:12.

Paid our bill and wandered through the lightly falling snow to the bus stop.  Luckily, a bus came pretty soon as the wind was biting cold, but it was warm inside the funicular.  Down at the train station it was just drizzle rather than snow.  Bought out tix, it's a 20 minute journey south to Orte where we'll change for the train to Spoleto

Arrived in Spoleto at 2-ish and caught the local bus to "centro", luckily Morag spotted our hotel as we whizzed past, the Hotel Charleston, so we only had a short walk back to it.  Our room here is smaller than the one at Orvieto, which was pretty big, but we hope will be quieter.  But there is a set of church bells dangerously close by.

Headed out into the cold to find some brunch and settled on a trattoria nearby, Morag had pasta and had nearly finished it before Mal's excellent pizza arrived.  Orvieto was quite flat once you got up onto the hilltop but here the hill has a more gradual slope, so there's a lot more walking up and down the hill.  After lunch we wandered further up the hill to the Duomo - not as big and impressive as the one at Orvieto but still very picturesque.  There's also a fort and some Roman ruins in town, but it was starting to snow again and freezing cold, so we'll do them another day.

Headed back to the room for some warmth and the mandatory siesta, so it was after 7 before we headed out for dinner.  Back up the hill to a street we'd spotted where there were 3 eateries to choose from, we picked the one with the most people in it.

Good choice, Morag had caprese (tomato and mozzarella), Mal had mixed local salami to start with, then grilled local sausages and mixed grill respectively.  All yummy and set off nicely by a bottle of 98 local Cab-Sauv, all for €41.50.

Cold walk home, not inclined to look in shop windows, too cold.

Here are some photos from that day. Click on any photo to see the full-size version

Nice building in Spoleto

Nice building in Spoleto

The Duomo at Spoleto

One of the many "founts" in town

Mon 25th March, Spoleto

Hey, a quiet night's sleep for us holidayers for a change, woke up about 8am to sunshine, no snow.

Buffet brekky with yummy croissants and out about 10ish for another wander round town and to ask at the tourist office about walking trails.  Unlike Orvieto we were showered in leaflets and a walking map.

Up the hill to the fort (the Rocco) but decided not to go in as it's guided tours only and you can bet it will be in Italian, so we wandered off on the circuit round the castle, past the huge bridge (the Ponte de Torre, looks like a huge aquaduct).  Still a chilly breeze, thankfully it was sunny.

Wandered down to the new part of town (via one of the Roman theatres, which we didn't actually find) we hit the local supermarket for some local biscuits for Morag to take to her work, and some biscotti for us (hard crusty biscuitty stuff that you dip in sweet wine).

Lunch was some fresh roast pork from a local van in town, we had to get our own bread rolls from the local bakery, €2 for the two and they were delish!.  We ate them in the local park and then hit the bakery for sweeties which we took back to the hotel (still v cold outside, need to warm up a bit).  After warming we headed back up the hill to the old town to explore in amongst the little alleyways and stuff.  Then back to the hotel for siesta.

Where to eat this evening - same place of course.  Morag had the caprese again while Mal had some local salami and cheese, with the most garlicky toast, then Morag had grilled steak while Mal had the mixed grill again.  Sound like last night's meal?  It was, the main difference was the addition of a Mediterranean salad and a litre of the house red (€4.50) - an ever so slightly bubbly red - yum, and some of the local cheese.  €42!

Not quite so freezing cold outside so we headed to the Duomo for a night photo (shivering too much to do it last night!), before heading home.

Here are some photos from that day. Click on any photo to see the full-size version

Ponte de Torre

The Duomo at Spoleto

Scene in Spoleto

Scene in Spoleto

Nightshot of the Duomo

Ponte de Torre

Ponte de Torre

Scene in Spoleto

Scene in Spoleto

Scene in Spoleto

Tue 26th March, Spoleto

Today is W-day - Walk in the Woods.  Got some bread and cheese (€3) and headed up the hill to the castle and the Pont de Torre.

Across the bridge and then up, and up, and up....the sign said it would take us 45 mins to reach Monteluca from the bridge but it took a bit longer.  Had to shed our jackets on the way, though it's a bit chilly, once you're trudging uphill you soon warm up.

At the top there was a nice picnic area so we had a banana and water break.  Monteluca is apparently a summer resort, not sure what people do there (according the the lass at the hotel they "lie and take the sun") but there was plenty of space for tents and vans.  Off we headed to Le Aie (goodness know how you say that) where we found there were two paths through the hamlet and we had to run the gauntlet of barking mongrel dogs before a farming woman told us we were going the wrong way and to go the other way.

So we went where she pointed but in fact this was the wrong way because there was a choice of paths, this was the shorter one and we wanted the longer one.  Back we went past the mongrel dogs again, sort of explained to the woman where we wanted to go, followed her pointing in the different direction and set off on that path.  Next thing we came across two fo her geese that were loose and wanted to protect their mate the duck from us. 

Managed to get past them after some concern that they would walk along the path in front of us for the rest of the afternoon.  Lots of hissing from the male goose.  From here it was a pleasant and not to steep trek up the side of a valley just below the Monte di Patrico.  We mistakenly took a detour that was signed to a cave (the Grotte San Bettone, sounds like priest lived in the cave for years eating only breadcrumbs and dead insects?) but turned out to be a very rough path to a bit of a dent in the rockface, but there was a decent spot on the way to stop and have our picnic and take some photos of the view.

Set off again about 2:30, supposedly it's 1:10 to get back to Spoleto, and yep, arrived in the outskirts of Spoleto and 3:45.  Detoured to church of San Pietro to look at the romanesque reliefs and stonecarvings of sheep and cows on the facade, then trekked into Spoleto - need to organise train tox to Roma Airport for tomorrow.

Unfortunately our walk has brought us into the opposite end if town from the train station, so we trekked round and eventually got the tix we wanted.  Then home via the local supermarket for more provisions - got back to the hotel at 6pm - quite knackered.

Just a quick nap before dinner - guess where.  Decided we'd economise on our last night and go for their tourist menu, our usual table was taken so we went through the the back room, which has a TV and so is usually occupied by the local bachelors (middle-aged guys who obviously do manual labour but know a good meal when they eat it).

We both had the local prosciutto with grlicky toast to start, then Morag had the barley soup while Mal had pasta.  Main course was local sausages for Mal and a grilled pork chop for Morag - accompanied by greek salad and potatoes.  Mal toped that up with a tiramisu and it was washed down with a litre of the local red and some water, €34.

An event that amused us during the meal - a mobile phone rang.  All the local bachelors dived for their jackets, us and the other couple (Italians) in the room were the only ones not diving for their mobiles.  Well it amused us.

We reckon that we were just about the only people in Italy not spending the day constantly using or checking mobile phones.

Here are some photos from that day. Click on any photo to see the full-size version

View of Spoleto

Scene in Spoleto

Scene in Spoleto

Scene from around Spoleto

Scene from around Spoleto

Hotel Charleston

Wed 27th March, Spoleto - Edinburgh

Today is the last day but we don't have to rush - the plan is to catch a 12:15 train to Roma, changing at the station before Termini to catch a suburban train to the airport, then a 5:30 flight to Paris then on to Edinburgh arriving at 10:30pm.

So we had a leisurely brekky, bit of a wander around, bit of a chat with the lass at the hotel (her father owns the hotel, and it's called the Charleston because - like my hometown of Melbourne - the town of Charleston Virginia has a Spoleto arts festival).

Anyway, we got to the train station in plenty of time because the bus trip down the hill was quicker than we anticipated.  The train arrived on time, the change at the station in Roma was painless.  The second train was a double-decker suburban train with only one gypsy child wandering through the train begging.

It turned out to be a good move that we got to Roma airport early as it turned out our 5:30 flight was cancelled, so we were able to get on the standby list for the 5pm flight.  Had time to get some tax-free booze and made it onto the earlier flight.  Arrived at Paris CDG a bit after 6 which left us plenty of time before the 9pm flight.  Here the real problems began.

Any flights that went over London were being delayed due to air traffic control problems.  Ours was delayed to 9:45, then to 10:50.  Finally we got down the stairs onto the bus only to be then taken off the bus as the flight was cancelled - they will put us on the first flight tomorrow.  Morag was one of the first in for a voucher for a room (at the airport Hilton) and new flight voucher, so we scooted down to the baggage carousel to pick up our bags.  After a while some bloke poked his head round the corner and asked what bags we were waiting for, Edinburgh came the cry and a little while later some bags appeared.  Morag's was third out but Mal's never appeared.

By the time we'd investigated where the bag might be (and were told "we don't know where it is but we will find it") we were last at the hotel and it was 1am before we got to sleep. 

PS. Tax free shopping is hopeless at Paris CDG, for example the bottle of Bombay Sapphire gin we bought at Rome for €14 would have been €23 at Paris - not much cheaper than the supermarket in Edinburgh).

Thu 28th March, Paris - Edinburgh

Up 7am and down for brekky before 8am.  Lukewarm coffee and a huge array of croissants and pasties.  Not a bad brekky, ours was free which is just as well cause it was priced at €22 - what a goldmine the captive business market is!

Back to the airport at 8:30 for our 10am flight, we're assured that Mal's bag will be on the flight.  This time the flight went smoothly and lo and behold there is Mal's bag arriving in Edinburgh.  When we think back, every time we've flown Air France we have had some kind of problem with baggage.  Even on this final flight, a small amount of damage has been done to Morag's suitcase.

We're already have our next holiday booked - a walk in the south of France, with Air France flights.  As this is being typed we are trying to change the flights to B.A.  We will not be flying Air France again if we can help it.

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